The Kandalama Cushion story, and my sri lanka travel tips

​"Oh that's a really nice hotel!" our guest house owner exclaimed.
“You can’t possibly get a tuk-tuk. No, no. Let me organise a driver for you.”
On our Sri Lankan adventure thus far we’d had so many “near misses” from bonkers bus drivers overtaking on the single-lane highway that runs from top to bottom of this small island that I didn’t care how I got there, as long as it was in one piece.

Which we did. And as soon as I spied the glorious hotel emerge out of the dusty, tan land, I was glad we were arriving in style.
We had treated ourselves to a couple of nights at the Heritance Kandalama, swapping humble little guesthouses for five star lux, and this jewel in star architect Geoffrey Bawa’s hotel crown, delivered everything I had hoped it would.
It's an extraordinarily harmonious fusion between the jungle and stark architecture built into a mountain. The hotel is fully covered and screened by vegetation, with a ramped ascent to the cave-like entrance. It is dramatic, sympathetic to the surrounds and simply breathtaking.

While we would’ve been more than happy to while away the afternoon in the infinity pool with its views across to the incredible rock fortress known as Sigiriya, we had it on good advice that a visit to the Golden Temple of Dambulla was a must.

The baking afternoon heat meant most of the crowds had retreated back to their hotels, which allowed us to explore the site in relative peace.
The Golden Temple is a Buddhist site that consists of a series of five cave shrines. Still inhabited by forest-dwelling Buddhist monks today as it has been since the 3rd century BCE, the natural caves have been transformed into one of the largest Buddhist complexes in the South Eastern Asian region, showcasing innovative approaches interior decoration. 

But it’s the giant golden Buddha overlooking the temple complex that is the most immediately impressive sight on the site that’s made up of caves filled with extraordinary carved Buddhas and rich, gold etched murals. Room after room was filled with incredible artistry, with geometric patterns and floral motifs interspersed with vast detailed pictorial narratives but it was a battle scene featuring snakes, leopards and other exotic animals that struck me.

I have re-used the base of the pattern and reworked the motifs to blend into a bright stylised abstract of what was a ceiling painting.  By moving elements and adding bold colours, this print is now full of energy and movement. ​

Murals in the Dambulla caves

Murals in the Dambulla caves

The giant Golden Buddha overlooking the complex

The Heritance Kandalama blending into the jungle

The Kandalama Cushion

shop Cushion

Sri Lanka travel tips

Explore Anuradhapura:
The ruins of Anuradhapura are one of Sri Lanka’s and South East Asia most impressive sights. The enormous complex contains a rich collection of architectural and archaeological wonders: large stupas, ancient pools and crumbling temples, built during Anuradhapura’s thousand years of rule over Sri Lanka.  Well worth a few hours exploring this area.

Stupa in Anuradhapura

Stupa in Anuradhapura

Safari at Minnriya Tank:
Book a safari and see the Elephant gathering at Minnriya Tank. Large numbers of Sri Lankan elephants are attracted to grass fields on the edges of the reservoir during the dry season.  It is amazing how close you get to these majestic creatures, whilst adhering to the strict rules and conservation of this area.

Elephant gathering at Minnriya Tank

Sigiriya:
Sigiriya (Lion Rock) is an ancient rock fortress located in the northern district near the town of Dambulla, Sri Lanka.   This site was selected by King Kashyapa for his new capital. He built his palace on the top of this rock and decorated its sides with colourful frescoes, and created a grand entrance to the place.
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​The capital and the royal palace was abandoned after the king's death, but still remains one of the best preserved examples of ancient urban planning and running fountains. When going to this site remember to take your walking shoes and plenty of water, and the last leg to the top is not for the faint hearted.

Sigiriya

Kandy Esala Perahera:
The first six nights are relatively low-key, but on the seventh night the proceedings escalate into a impressive parade.  Thousands of fire twirlers, dancers, drummers, flag waivers and elephants parade the street in a colourful 4 hour plus procession.

​The perahera is held in Kandy to honour the sacred tooth enshrined in the The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic. It runs for 10 days in the month of Esala (July/August), ending on the Nikini poya (full moon).
We stayed at a local guest house who organised us our tickets, and you need to book well in advance.  It’s also a dry zone during the festival, so those inclined for a little tipple, it’s time for a detox.

Elephants on parade

Fire twirlers lighting up the streets

Elephants in blue

Nuwara Eliya:
Nestled amongst the tea plantations its ‘Little England’ in the highlands and this town has a British-country-village feel to it.  With colonial-era bungalows, Tudor-style hotels, well-tended hedgerows and pretty gardens and a much cooler climate it’s a must see on your trip to Sri Lanka.  Stay a couple of days and explore the tea plantations and sample the fine quality tea.  It’s an easy and scenic train ride from Kandy.

Tea picking in Nuwara Eliya

Galle:
Galle is an exotic old trading port blessed with Dutch-colonial buildings, ancient mosques and churches, grand mansions and museums. Easy to explore on foot, and you will love wandering its lanes as you pass impeccably restored hotels, cafes, and quirky boutiques. In Galle you will also find amazing artists, writers, photographers and designers to pick up holiday trinkets.

The old trading port of Galle